There is a link between nature and the apparel business
The basis of clothes throughout human history has been fabric. With the exception of synthetic fabrics, older fabrics were entirely made from natural materials, such as cotton and linen from plants or silk and wool from animals. In addition, woody plants, non-fiber animal hides and bones can be fashioned into elaborate decorations and used as fashion-related raw materials.
The texture, breathability and dyeing feasibility of different varieties dictated the style of garments made over centuries. The intricate relationship between nature and the garment industry can be seen in an exhibition organized by the China National Silk Museum at Hangzhou Tower.
The exhibition runs through November 30.
A gown with rose patterns dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries
The first thing one notices in the exhibition is vintage Western clothing dating back to centuries ago. Western society was governed by naturalism, which was motivated by a desire to understand nature. The belief that women should be interested in studying botany led to the fashion for botanical designs in clothes.
The gown on display, which is decorated with rose patterns, was the pinnacle of 18th to 19th-century clothing. In order to lengthen the skirt, dresses from this period were supported in the back below the waist by bustles, a cushion, metal, or whalebone framework.
The daily dresses and ball gowns worn by women in the late 18th century are also on display. The wonders of nature have inspired endless ideas and fashion expressions.
Designers and fabric producers have historically studied unusual flora and animals to produce vibrant designs on fabrics using techniques like embroidery and printing. The designs' finer points were portrayed in an increasingly precise and delicate way as textile printing and dyeing technology advanced.
Balenciaga's White Coat from the 20th century
As shown in the exhibits, new equipment allowed for the production of printed textile products with semi-abstract and floral patterns.
Looms allowed for the mass production of lace as the fashion industry advanced, replacing hand sewing and spinning. Thus, around the start of the 20th century, lace-decorated garments started to become popular.
A bridal veil that was used to adorn a wedding gown is displayed in the exhibition. At the time, shoulder pieces, corsages and cuffs were frequently adorned with flowery lace patterns, which gave them a softer, more romantic feel.
Feathers were common in the fashion industry, especially in hats. They were widely employed in the 19th and early 20th centuries as manufacturing technology peaked in that period. Hats in Europe were adorned with extravagant feathers, radiating elegance.
On display are vintage hats from Western countries in the 19th and 20th centuries. Hats served societal purposes in addition to keeping people's heads warm. A beautiful hat, especially for a woman, frequently denoted her social standing and money.
It was different in the tropical regions. The rainforest provided ideal materials for braiding hats. Grasses, palm and vine leaves were commonly used in hats. Rice straw and bamboo were very common in hats throughout history.
Visitors are taken on a fashion history tour at the exhibition.
And then there are fur caps. It protected people from the cold in winter but gradually developed into a symbol of social class. Today, people are abandoning fur hats as awareness of animal protection grows.
Hezhe (赫哲) people's fish-skin shoes is another example of how human beings used animals to produce costumes. As a minority living by the Heilong River in Heilongjiang Province, they make a living by fishing. The skin from the local chum salmon became material for clothes and shoes. The exhibition throws light on ethnic minorities' unusual dressing styles.
Chinese avant-garde designers have drawn inspiration from traditional culture and nature to create a range of costumes to represent the vibrant lifestyle of a new era.
Xiong Ying, the creator of the domestic brand Heaven Gaia, took inspiration from the Liangzhu Civilization and created a gown with traditional Liangzhu themes. Xiong employed hand-sewn embroidery with golden and silver thread to emphasize the heyday of the Liangzhu Civilization. Brightly colored thread and brocade are used for the embroidery, which is differentiated by lines of gold thread.
A Liangzhu-themed gown created by Xiong Ying
Wearable Nature Exhibition
Date: Through November 30, 10am-9:30pm
Venue: Hangzhou Tower
Address: No. 21, Wulin Square
武林广场21号
