XISHAN Island in Taihu Lake is typical of the intricate and romantic traditional Chinese landscape so favored by painters.

Mountain peaks rise above low mists, high clouds fleet overhead, tree leaves rustle in the breeze, streams splash over rocks and bird song wafts through the air.

Xishan, only two hours’ drive from Shanghai, is a bit off the beaten track of standard Suzhou-area tourist sites. It is a place to escape the urban crowds, selfie-takers and tacky souvenir shops, and just wander back in time with one’s inner thoughts.

Set in the outlying suburbs of Suzhou, the Taihu Lake abounds with tranquility, fresh fish cuisine, local orchards, picturesque villages and lovely areas to walk, bicycle or just sit in contemplation. In such a mountainous setting, sunrises and sunsets become attractions in themselves.

Xishan and its neighboring island Dongshan, respectively called West Mountains and East Mountains, have long been favorite retreat destinations for locals from Jiangsu Province, especially in the summer. They haven’t yet been spoiled by mass tourism from elsewhere.

But is all that about to change?

“Enjoy the serenity while you can,” said Zhong, our local driver from Xishan Island, pointing to a fancy new resort under construction.

Nearby, local islanders are turning homes into hostels and opening restaurants, in anticipation of big flows of tourists in the next few years.

A grand statue of Guanyin, or the Goddess of Mercy, has been built atop a hill on Xishan. There’s also a spacious temple at the foot of the hill. A popular ancient Chinese poem says, “Mountains are famous for the gods that live there, not their height.”

The new tourist attraction is set to open soon. Visitors from Suzhou have been going there to get a sneak preview. Trees near the statue on the hilltop are already covered with strings of paper with visitors’ wishes written on them.

Guanyin has 33 manifestations and one of them is the Guanyin of water and moon, often worshipped by fishermen for safe sailing. In ancient times, many islanders were fishermen, so there has always been a tradition of worshipping Guanyin.

The locals also call Xishan “the mountain of flowers and fruit” because of the orchards that fill the area and provide seasonal fruits all year round. We visited in May, in the loquat season. Long, shiny tapes attached to the trees fluttered in the breeze. They are fixed there to scare off the birds, who crave loquat as much as humans do.

Loquats from Xishan Island are juicy yet not too sweet, while those from neighboring Dongshan Island are sweeter. In June, Chinese bayberries come into season.

Dongshan also has several blueberry farms. Pears and pomegranates are ready for picking in August. And in winter, Xishan’s plum blossoms are a local attraction. Many orchards are open for visitors to pick their own fruit.

Chinese cuisine emphasizes fresh seasonal ingredients and regional recipes, and this area lives up to that tradition. In addition to fruit, Taihu Lake teems with fish. Local dishes are made with a minimum of seasoning and cooking.

The lake is perhaps most famous for its hairy crab, best eaten in the autumn. White fish, tiny white shrimp and little sardine-like silver fish are also on menus in all local eateries. A variety of water grass found only in this area is a taste experience not to be missed. It’s prepared by a quick boil in water.

Mingyuewan Village, or bright moon bay village, is the most famous tourist spot on Xishan Island and one of the oldest and best preserved of old villages in the greater Suzhou area. The 500-year-old village still looks pretty much like it did in ancient times, except perhaps for the advent of bikes and motorbikes.

The village gives visitors the chance to see traditional architecture of centuries earlier. Some houses have been turned into small museums, but most of houses are owner-occupied. Wooden or stone carvings of traditional Chinese stories or symbols can still be found in some of them.

Among the houses open for visitors, one formerly belonged to a retired scholar and government official. Another was the abode of an ordinary peasant. They give visitors the opportunity to see the lifestyles of different social classes.

The official’s house is divided into public and domestic spheres. The owner’s social status is reflected in the intricate architectural details, such as the height of the doorsill — the taller the doorsill, the higher-ranking the official. Today, people still use the phrase “the same door level” to describe families of equal or close social status.

A family ancestral temple has also been turned into a museum, offering a glimpse of the rites of ancestor worship. People believe that ancestors became the guardian gods of a family. Thus, it was important to pay respect to them on various occasions and to pray for their protection.

Such traditions were particularly prominent in this area, which was once a prosperous center of merchants sharing the same family names.

The village’s name, Mingyuewan, is best explained by the nearby creek, where the reflection of the moon is crystal clear at night. Local tales claim that Xi Shi, one of the earliest recorded female spies from more than 2,000 years ago, once stood here gazing at the full moon. She was said to be a favorite concubine of the king of Wu, whose kingdom was centered in Suzhou.

Xi Shi, known as one of the four ancient beauties, is a household name in China. Historic records describe her as a beautiful concubine, who was offered to the king of Wu after he defeated the nearby Yue Kingdom. Various folk tales over the centuries have added more luster to the colorful stories surrounding this legendary beauty.

It was said her stunning glamor shocked fish, who forgot how to swim and sank into the lake. “Sinking fish” has become a common phrase to describe rare beauty.

Xi Shi is said to have been a spy for the Yue Kingdom, planted in the Wu Kingdom to keep tabs on the rival. Her mission was apparently successful. The Yue Kingdom finally took revenge on Wu about 20 years later.

Her whereabouts were never documented in historical records, but folk tales say she eventually was reunited with her first love and sailed away with him, only to be drowned later in Taihu Lake.

Local villagers here dote on such tales, especially when the full moon shines brightly. The island was long a favorite royal retreat.

Another highlight is a 1,200-year-old camphor tree, which greets visitors entering the village. Such ancient trees are revered as symbols of vitality and continuity. This particular tree has survived storms, fire, Japanese occupation and other travesties.

The islands of Xishan and Dongshan were once home to many old villages, but few have survived.

Dong Cun, or East Village, is another good destination for those wishing to avoid commercialism. Walking on the cobblestone roads, one can easily be transported back to a time when these surroundings inspired poets and painters.

Piao Miao Feng

Taihu Lake is dotted with 72 peaks on various islands. Piao Miao Feng, or “ethereal peak,” on Xishan Island is considered one of the most picturesque. It sits in the middle of the Xishan National Forest Park and is covered with fruit and tea trees.

Though only about 300 meters high, the peak is often swirled by mist and low clouds, creating an unearthly atmosphere reminiscent of the legendary mountains where gods lived. It takes about two to three hours to climb to the top, where one is rewarded with a panoramic view of the whole Taihu Lake region.

In ancient times, this place was a favorite getaway for royals, intellectuals, artists and even robbers. It’s said that Xi Shi and the Wu king often escaped the summer heat in pavilions built on the mountaintop. The pavilions have since been destroyed, but several replicas have been re-created here.

Another popular tale involves a famed robber who lived some 1,000 years ago. He is said to have built a tall tower on the mountaintop, from where he could watch richly loaded boats on Taihu Lake.

Legend has it that he hid all his stolen treasures in huge pots that were buried on the mountain. He was later captured and beheaded by the imperial army, and the location of his treasures died with him. Since then, many have gone on fruitless treasure hunts in the area.