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A Pace-setter in city’s Italian gastronomy
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THERE’S plenty to be written about new restaurants and chefs in a constantly changing and evolving city. But what about a chef that has continuously maintained his high standards in Italian gastronomy and launched a new concept inside the Middle House Residences, Frasca — a unique restaurant set apart from a typical mainstream Italian eatery with a strong wine list and a freshly baked Pinsa Romana that add to its charm.
“I developed a concept deriving from some true iconic Italian, without the cliche green, white and red statement. Focusing on the armed forces and the traditions of the trattoria, as is in Italy, but in Shanghai,” Stefano Pace said.
The vibe is a posh yet laid-back “casa mia” feeling.
“I wanted to give a dining experience one of being at someone’s house in Italy and experiencing the ‘casalingha’ effect. Italian is Italian, and certain criteria such as produce and tradition should not be compromised,” he said.
Pace reflects his culinary style based on the concept that it represents and reflects the philosophy of “true simplicity” based on the niche of produce being local and imported. The Italian chef has a knack of creating enduring concepts that stand the test of time. Having lived in Shanghai for more than 15 years, he has worked in five-star hotels and was the head chef at D.O.C on Dongping Road.
Pace makes familiar dishes both exciting and surprising. The menu features ostensibly Italian food but there’s a personal twist too.
One highlight on the menu is the Pinsa Romana. “It’s a cousin of the pizza but the future of pizza — light in stomach, 90-hour proofing, crispy and made from three different flours that is officially a ‘gluten-free’ type of pizza,” Pace said.
Pace is house making all his pasta from gluten free to organic duck egg lasagna sheets and only using one industrial pasta for his “spaghetti marinara.” It’s a pasta that he regards as one of the best pasta houses from Verona.
“We create our menu with a ‘healthy conscience,’” he added.
Among the many dishes I’ve tried at Frasca, the Pinsa Romana caprese and house-made pastas of different kinds left such a great impression — fresh, seasonal, traditional and as authentic as possible.
As one would expect, Italian wines dominate the drinks list. Wines by the glass are extensive and all the drinks are Italian from tonics, beers to organic wines. The house red pour is the one and only Masi Costasera Campofiorin baby amarone and its only available at Frasca by the house pour.
“At Frasca, I will be introducing alternative wine tasting events conversing into semi-dinner events based on wine and culture,” Pace said.
Frasca
Opening hours: 5:30pm-10:30pm (Tuesday to Saturday)
Tel: 3216-8168
Address: 1/F, 366 Shimen No. 1 Rd
Average price: 450 yuan (US$68.81)
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