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December 10, 2017

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Winter: What better time for hearty French roasts?

IF you are looking for some hearty, sumptuous roast meats to stock up for the winter, Paris Blanc which has just opened at the HKRI Taikoo Hui mall is one place to consider.

Specializing in French rotisserie, this newest member of Le Paris Group, after Paris Rouge, which serves fine French cuisine and Paris Bleu the seafood bistro, has a casual and entertaining style — there is even a pole in the center of the room for guests who wish to show off their dancing skills.

It’s also not exactly located in the mall, but in the second floor of a small villa on the south square.

Their first menu features a wide selection of French rotisserie meats, from chicken and pork to quail and rabbit, all roasted in the two specially imported French rotisserie ovens.

For starters, there are several interesting salads to choose from. The French warm pork trotters with tartar sauce (98 yuan/US$14.81) was a nice surprise.

Trotters are not a commonly seen in salads in Shanghai, and for this warm dish the collagen-rich meat has been cooked until it falls apart and is topped with a refreshing salad to give it a bit of crunch. The bone gives an extra richness to the flavor.

If you want to sample a bit of everything, the homemade Paris Blanc charcuterie trolley (158 yuan) includes chicken liver mousse, pork liver terrine, wild gibier terrine, rillette de viande rotie and French pate.

Chicken is a classic and a crowd favorite when it comes to French rotisserie, and Paris Blanc’s roasted French coquelet (198 yuan) passed with flying colors. The meat was fresh and aromatic, and not overpowered by seasoning. Enjoy it with the hot or cold sauces prepared by chef and owner Stephane Liu.

To upgrade the poultry dish, there’s the roasted wild pheasant (468 yuan for 2-3 to share), wild pigeon (158 yuan) and wild mallard duck (498 yuan for 2-3 to share).

The steaks were also cooked nicely, but the glazed pork belly roll (168 yuan) had a tough, chewy skin. The seafood menu includes fish, octopus, scallops and shrimps.

The selection of sides includes fries, gratin, grilled Yunnan mushroom and grilled organic cherry tomato and kailan.

If you still have room for dessert, Paris Blanc has some decent creations. The Breton sablé (shortbread crust) with lemon cream and pomelo (78 yuan), fresh mint lemon tart (76 yuan) and passion fruit crème brûlée (68 yuan) are on the sour side, and can cut the greasiness of those delicious roasts.




 

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