Time for change at new look Milan fashion show
Print Edition
IN a flash, it was over. The Milan Fashion Week devoted to fall and winter menswear for 2018-19 was abbreviated this year into a super-slim long weekend.
Many fashion houses opted to fold their previews for men into their womenswear shows scheduled for next month. Others decided to go with more hands-on presentations instead of all-out runway productions.
With social and political crises unsettling the globe, Milan Fashion Week was all about slogans this season. “Time For Change” has been a particularly dominant catchphrase. The fashion world can expect to see branded across sweatshirts, waistbands and accessories.
Armani’s adventurous elegance
Elegance meets adventure at Giorgio Armani, with double-breasted looks, a new jacket collar with a built-in shawl, a posable shirt collar and joggers or cargo pants tucked into tall mountain boots.
Armani employed velvet generously in his main line. Velvet is the textile of princes, the designer noted. Armani’s suits were both formal and casual.
Formal double-breasted looks were a strong suit, in shirts and knitwear as well as the classic jacket. For Armani, “the double-breasted construction is beautiful, because it does it all,” whereas a more common single button jacket requires a vest or a fancy shirt and tie to finish the look.
Fendi Take-off
Silvia Venturini Fendi took a journey to the family fashion house’s past for next winter’s menswear and found herself at a fantastical airport carousel.
Bags of every sort and even a fur-covered baby bassinet sped by on a conveyor belt as models strode by. Fanciful accessories had a strong role to play in the collection, from fur-covered safari hats to plasticized rain hats and Fendi-branded umbrella-shaped caps.
The collection had a feel both contemporary and nostalgic.
Brown and gold were the main colors, and the silhouettes veered toward relaxed, roomy cuts. Diagonal detailing characterized the season, appearing on fur coats, down jackets, and matching silken shirt-and-tie sets.
Prada’s strange packages
In challenging times, it is not unusual to seek the familiar. For Miuccia Prada, there is comfort in black nylon.
The designer generously employs her favored material for the cold weather season.
The boxy shapes for men and women appear to conceal the wearer in a unisex vein, but it is all for naught: Identity badges suggested a form of surveillance in the runway scenario. That sense of excessive control transforms into a political statement once the garments are on the rack and available to consumers.
Despite the collection’s utilitarian nature creating a sort of uniform of anoraks, jackets, caps, straight trousers and skirts, Prada said she also wanted to convey elegance.
MSGM back to basics
Milan university students served as both models and inspiration for the new MSGM collection. Taking their cue, brand founder Massimo Giorgetti found himself making an unexpected turn toward the dapper with hints of classic Milanese styling.
“I studied the attitude of these guys, and it is less street wear than usual without losing modernity,” Giorgetti said. The silhouette veered toward the everyday. Looks included snazzy suits with zip-up jackets in pink or red worn with ties, as well as plaid trousers paired with cardigans and jumpsuits. Giorgetti collaborated with Eastpak on a series of graphic printed backpacks and travel bags.
Meditative Sartorial Monk
Sabato Russo isn’t your usual designer making his Milan runway debut, supported by the Italian Fashion Chamber. He has decades of experience behind him, first as a model, and then working in the fashion industry in Japan and New York.
“I was tired of making money and making clothes,” Russo said. After taking time off to reflect, he returned to the business with his own brand, Sartorial Monk. In keeping with the name, his Milan debut collection can aptly be described as meditative.
The looks appear simple to the eye, but are full of detail like Middle Eastern draping, that belie a complexity.
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