"Cartier: The Power of Magic" on display at Shanghai Museum East

"Cartier, that subtle magician who captures fragments of the moon on a thread of sun." This quote by Jean Cocteau, a renowned French artist of the 20th century, perfectly illustrates the uniqueness and magic of Cartier's jewelry, highlighting its beauty and elegance.

Founded in 1847, Cartier has become synonymous with timeless elegance and artistic innovation, continuously pushing the boundaries of jewelry design. The Shanghai Museum East presents "Cartier: The Power of Magic," an exhibition in collaboration with the renowned jewelry Maison.

This exhibition showcases over 300 pieces from the Cartier Collection, Cartier Archives, and private collections, featuring dazzling jewels, intricate clocks, watches, and decorative objects. Each piece takes visitors on an immersive journey through its century-long legacy of craftsmanship.

The exhibition space is inspired by classical Chinese gardens and traditional Chinese landscape paintings. The set design was created by cAl™ with guidance from the artist Cai Guoqiang. The exhibit's scenography delves into themes of home and distance, material and immaterial, permanence and impermanence.

Cai, known for bridging the past with the present through his art, brings an added dimension to the exhibition, which blurs the lines between reality and magic. This interplay of perspectives and elements invites visitors to connect with the transformative power of jewelry–a force that Cartier has perfected by capturing the energy of nature in each precious stone.

Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) was a French artist renowned for his avant-garde works and distinctive style. He became one of the most influential figures in literature, theater, and painting, inspiring countless contemporary artists. Cocteau's connection to the Cartier brand is particularly noteworthy.

In 1955, he was elected to the Académie Française, a prestigious honor that entitled him to wear a ceremonial sword. He commissioned Cartier to design this sword, which became a symbol of his artistic identity.

Designed by Cocteau himself and crafted by Cartier, the design centers around the mythological figure of Orpheus, Cocteau's lifelong muse and a symbol of artistic creation and tragedy. The handguard traces Orpheus's profile, a nod to the myth's profound influence on Cocteau's work. At the pommel, Orpheus's lyre is adorned with a 2.84-carat emerald and rubies gifted by Coco Chanel and Francine Weisweiller, two of Cocteau's closest friends and supporters. The lyre isn't just decorative; it represents the connection between music, poetry, and emotion–themes Cocteau explored throughout his career. This sword is far more than ceremonial; it's an artistic autobiography in miniature. Each symbol reflects Cocteau's relationships, inspirations, and the creative forces that shaped his life. Through Cartier's masterful execution, Cocteau's vision is preserved in a timeless piece that captures his legacy–a work of art honoring the life of a true visionary.

These gardens, with their picturesque landscapes resembling living paintings, evoke a sense of tranquility and dynamism that is reflected in Cartier's jewelry. They capture the beauty and cyclical nature of the world–the growth of grass, the songs of orioles, and the changing seasons–imbuing Cartier pieces with a sense of rhythm and vitality.

In the 1920s, the influence of Chinese art became particularly pronounced in Cartier's work. The brand showcased remarkable craftsmanship, creating items with intricate motifs on expansive surfaces, such as the stunning vanity cases now housed in the Cartier Collection. This dedication to authentic Chinese ornamentation–featuring dragons, phoenixes, and the dynamic motif of two dragons chasing a pearl–demonstrates Cartier's thoughtful reinterpretation of cultural symbols through contemporary design, employing techniques and materials like bronze and porcelain.

"Cartier: The Power of Magic" not only celebrates the exquisite craftsmanship and beauty of Cartier's creations but also serves as a testament to the brand's ability to weave stories that transcend time and culture. Each piece in the exhibition is a reminder of the deep connections between art, nature, and the human experience.

If you go:

Shanghai Museum East

10:00–18:00 (latest entry at 17:00); closed on Tuesdays (except national holidays)

Reservation is required.

Address: No. 1952 Century Avenue, Shanghai