Balenciaga & Shanghai Ascendant: The 25 Spring Collection Launch
Preface note: This was this writer's first time at a global fashion launch event. Actually, any fashion event period. So read on, for a better-late-than never, fashion outsider's view on this milestone event.
Chinese supermodel Ming Xi in a strapless Balenciaga complemented by long matching gloves, decorated with an array of shimmering jewels and brooches, and other embellishments made for a captivating interplay of light against the slow rainfall.
Balenciaga didn't just launch a collection in Shanghai, the brand made history.
By now, you've likely scrolled past the rain-speckled snapshots of Balenciaga's (prestigious fashion brand known for its innovative and boundary-pushing designs) Spring 2025 launch on your social feeds or caught wind of Shanghai's latest claim to fashion fame through whispers that echo the buzz of the city itself.
Beyond the glitz of curated online galleries lies a deeper narrative, one stitched meticulously under the shimmering backdrop of a city where ancient meets ultra-modern. Balenciaga's choice of Shanghai for its third major global launch – after the star-studded ramps of New York and Los Angeles – wasn't just another pin on the map.
This was different. It was a strategic embrace of a metropolis poised at the forefront of Asia's fashion revolution, a vibrant declaration that Shanghai's moment to reign was resoundingly now. Stepping into the fray that evening, amidst the unexpected symphony of light rain, I was enveloped by an air charged not just with moisture but with anticipation, setting the stage for what was to unfold as more than just a fashion show, but a bold dialogue across cultures.
Strategic Elegance: Balenciaga Positions Shanghai as Asia's New Fashion Vanguard
Let's get one thing straight before you dive into the rest of this article: the Balenciaga Spring 2025 show wasn't just a fashion statement – it was a strategic chess move on the global stage of style, placing Shanghai at the center of it all.
This bold selection is not merely about showcasing new trends but signals Shanghai's ascension as the burgeoning fashion capital of Asia. Balenciaga's press material specifically mentions, "FIRST in Shanghai," the city's fresh campaign to spearhead innovations and captivate the global consumer market in fashion and cosmetics. This city initiative has found its poster child in Balenciaga's event, which thoughtfully intertwined luxury with local culture.
On Balenciaga
Balenciaga, once the epitome of couture purity under the discerning eye of its Spanish founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga, has morphed into the playground of modern fashion's enfant terrible, Demna. Since its inception in 1919, Balenciaga has been a synonym for sophistication. Yet, under his stewardship, the brand has been reborn as a hybrid creature: part haute couture, part streetwear insurgent, all parts provocative.
Chinese supermodel Du Juan in a striking avant-garde Balenciaga ensemble. Oversized structural elements evoke a sense of dramatic elegance.
Under Demna, Balenciaga toys with the oversized and the overt, wielding logos like a new lexicon of luxury. The house's collections seem to court controversy and applause in equal measure, featuring everything from triple-soled sneakers to layered outerwear that could double as urban armor. The designs push boundaries – both aesthetic and philosophical – blurring the lines between high fashion and high-octane drama.
Model Rain Bonnaire from Los Angeles, in a black Balenciaga gown with an upward taper, and long white gloves.
Yet, for all its current hype, what we saw in Shanghai is that the essence of Balenciaga's legacy – its commitment to innovation – is preserved. The brand remains a pioneer, not just in its look but in its embrace of the digital (see the collaboration with Alipay below). Here, in the house that Cristóbal built, the past and the future collide, creating fashion that is as intellectually compelling as it is visually disruptive.
The Collection
As the first model stepped out, it was clear this wasn't just another runway show but a dialogue with Shanghai itself. Balenciaga's Spring 2025 collection, orchestrated by the ever-imaginative Demna, was an intentional nod to the city's architectural renown, transforming fabrics into urban landscapes. With many pieces reachin skyward, mirroring the ambitious high-rises with elongated silhouettes (extended vertical designs that emphasize length and height) that sliced through the cool, misty air – each stride a bold stroke on the city's canvas.
Local Shanghai model Ding, decked out in super appropriate rain spitting spring attire.
The collection was a playful tease of the senses, featuring hourglass skirts (sharply tailored to cinch at the waist and flare at the hips) and digital-print bodysuits (seamless garments that create an illusion of depth on a flat surface) that tricked the eye with a depth of texture that was, frankly, a flat-out fabrication. Trompe l'oeil (art techniques that create optical illusions) on silk dresses played the illusionist, while semi-couture pieces (custom-designed with a touch less exclusivity than haute couture), and a cocoon column dress crafted from travel bags and a dress that transformed pink plastic bags into a feather-like spectacle.
Model Sonja Hulsman from Amsterdam sporting an oversized white puffer jacket with a contemporary vibe which contrasts sharply with the slim silhouette of the ensemble beneath
Collabs
This sartorial narrative was further enriched by unexpected collaborations that bridged cultures and industries. A partnership with Under Armour infused the lineup with a fusion of high-performance athletic wear and high fashion – a nod perhaps to the city's dynamic pace. Meanwhile, the culinary collaboration with a Shanghainese restaurant brought a taste of local flavor to the mix, serving custom dim sum that beautifully married French and traditional Chinese culinary arts, symbolizing a deeper, edible form of cultural exchange.
One standout collaboration from Balenciaga's Spring launch was a limited edition T-shirt featuring the Balenciaga logo alongside Alipay's emblem. This collector's item, exclusive to the Chinese market and sold out within a week, commemorates the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between China and France. It symbolizes the partnership between a storied French fashion house and an iconic Chinese tech company, blending tradition with innovation.
Chinese supermodel Pei Bei was part of the procession in a vibrant pink Balenciaga dress, with a bold floral print and cinched waist, accessorized with a stylish black crossbody bag.
The Rain
As the event unfolded, the rain, unscripted yet utterly cinematic, added a layer of ethereal beauty to the proceedings. Holding an umbrella while attempting to capture the perfect shot, I found myself wrestling with more than just my camera settings (my umbrella was constantly drip-soaking the poor souls sitting on either side of me). The gentle mist cast halos around the models, creating an otherworldly ambiance that almost seemed orchestrated by the fashion gods themselves. It was a testament to Balenciaga's monumental adaptability – turning what could have been a dampener into a spectacle of shimmering silhouettes.
Gansukhh, a mature gentleman from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, strode past as if walking on air. He was a memorable moment in the line-up, showcasing Demna's designs as ageless.
A Slip in the Luxe
However, the evening was not without its flaws. The selection of the one-year-old Regent Hotel on the Bund, while a nod to Shanghai's luxe veneer, stumbled a bit in execution. My own experience at the private dinner was something – a forgotten main dish and a belated admission from the kitchen that they had "run out of my dish" after an hour of waiting hinted at a venue perhaps not yet seasoned for such high stakes.
Despite the hiccup, the event was well-orchestrated. It's worth noting that the dinner was a generous, last-minute offering from Balenciaga, providing a space for guests to relax and refresh before the after-party. Kudos to Balenciaga for securing a venue on the day and to the Regent for accommodating a large influx of unexpected diners. Perhaps other fashion brands might take inspiration, offering similar refreshments. If so, we're betting The Shanghai Edition, known for its full venue takeovers, or the sky-touching Flair Rooftop at the Ritz Carlton with its sweeping westward city views, will be in the mix for future fashion events.
Notables in Attendance
Like Balenciaga's iconic launch events, the evening was star-studded. Arriving at the venue drenched (having forgotten my umbrella), I mistakenly wandered into a crowd outside the Pudong Museum of Art. Puzzled and thinking, "How do I get in?" I soon realized my error. This throng was likely awaiting the arrival of Demna or celebrities like Sophie Marceau and Michelle Yeoh. I regretted not being in the right place to greet Michelle Yeoh, to commend her for her roles that lifted 'Star Trek: Discovery' and made 'Everything, Everywhere, All at Once' a film worth watching repeatedly.
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Michelle Yeo
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Sophie Marceau
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Bibi Zhou
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Chris Lee
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Jia ZHangke
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Balenciaga... a city kingmaker?
Choosing Shanghai for Balenciaga's Spring 2025 spectacle wasn't just a pin on the map; it was a masterstroke, deliberately positioning Shanghai alongside established fashion juggernaut capitals like Paris, Milan, and New York. But maybe, just maybe, it's more than that. It's a savvy nod to Shanghai's role as a standard-bearer of the new, the now, the next in global culture.
Amidst a sea of umbrellas, Balenciaga's Spring 2025 debut casts a spell over Shanghai's historic Bund, merging fashion with the city's dramatic Bund backdrop in a spectacular display of the industry's future.
Demna isn't just picking a city; he's aligning Balenciaga with Shanghai's breathtaking evolution – from a farmland that Lujiazui was just 30 years ago, to a skyline that has become a towering beacon of futurism.
As one insider told me "This is the first time Demna has visited China. He's in love with the idea of creating a dialogue with Balenciaga's growing Chinese fan base here."
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As the event closed, models later re-appeared as sillouhettes against MAP's massive LED light walls, ushering echoes of applause, leaving an indelible mark on those fortunate enough to witness this fashion interlude.
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As the event closed, models later re-appeared as sillouhettes against MAP's massive LED light walls, ushering echoes of applause, leaving an indelible mark on those fortunate enough to witness this fashion interlude.
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Reflections
Reflecting on the night, the unexpected rain now seems less an inconvenience and more a celestial stamp of approval. In Chinese culture, rain is often seen as an omen of good fortune, especially when it arrives during a moment of significance. Perhaps, then, the weather was the perfect accomplice to Balenciaga's narrative – a story of renewal and ambitious beginnings in a city that itself never stops dreaming.
Balenciaga's Spring 2025 launch in Shanghai will undoubtedly be remembered as a pivotal moment – both for the brand and for the city. It was an evening where every drop of rain seemed to whisper tales of potential and promise, and every silhouette against the lights of the Bund told a story of bold futures.
The dress transformed pink plastic bags into a feather-like spectacle. A nod to the models who, despite the rain, strode by unphased by it. Eliza, from New York, donned this dress for the evening.
Special thanks to Peter Xu (Instagram: @digitalpimpp; WeChat Channel: 徐峰立) for the use of photos he's kindly shared.
