Pigs to dinosaurs: only at Paris men's fashion week
Paris men’s fashion week saw collections putting dog, pig and dinosaur heads on their models. Other highlights: check patterns and prints from Dries Van Noten, Dior’s “abandon” of youth, Lanvin’s urban-looking masculinity and Louis Vuitton’s spirit of adventure.
Dries Van Noten
Belgian master of menswear Dries Van Noten explored check patterns and prints last week for a dapper and sartorial collection — with a hint of madness.
The silhouette was oversized — long square-shouldered coats and baggy sweaters twinned nicely with blown up check in tartan, Nashville and traditional styles that captured the trendy and playful edge. The program notes said the collection was about “taking time honored codes of menswear to a restrained extreme.”
This could be seen in one luxuriant and classic staple — a silk gunmetal-colored shirt that was jazzed up with multicolored flower motifs down the torso. This shirt was stiffly buttoned right up — in a good example in how the collection sagely towed the line between the traditional and the wacky.
It was an ambitious fusion of two periods for Dior Homme: A sartorial homage to the past that twinned what the house called the “reckless abandon” of youth with the couture of Monsieur Dior’s New Look.
Designer Van Assche used references to 1990s tattoo culture in prints and gothic silver jewelry alongside suit variations on the Bar Jacket from the famed 1947 collection that transformed Western fashion.
The two-periods theme in the 49 suit-heavy looks was also evident in the age range of the models, who were either very young, or over 40.
The first styles, accessorized with silk neck scarves, featured some beautifully refined single- and double-breasted suits with narrow waists that curved out in a slight peplum-shape. Suits are the bread-and-butter of the house.
“I thought it was a good moment for Dior to go back to its DNA, like really the sharply cut suit,” the 41-year-old Van Assche said.
A constellation of bright lights that were fixed on stands around the runway gave Lanvin’s display a dreamlike air.
The clothes at the Sunday morning show were more fixed on reality — with sneakers, hoods, hats, toggles and straps appearing on urban-looking and masculine winter looks.
The notable creative feature here was the cross-over styles. Sometimes asymmetrical, it worked well alongside designer Lucas Ossendrijver’s signature use of layering.
A long coat with square pockets featured a flat cross-over lapel, alongside a partly-unzipped and oversized sleeveless coat in beige — that hung wonkily and possessed a carefree quality.
Exploration and travel were the touchstones in Jones’ sportswear-influenced collection, inspired by aerial photos of the Kenyan landscape.
The images, taken from a helicopter, appeared as swirling prints and kinetic motifs on dark navy bombers, or on flat-fronted organza hunting shirts and sporty leggings.
The colors of rocks — slate, granite and sandstone — influenced the collection’s masculine palette, which was shot through with the brights of rock-climbing attire such as neon yellow, orange and silver.
Adventure was at the heart of this fun show that had big hiker boots stomping down the runway. Jones said it was about “discovering something new. A constant voyage.”