Proud history of a unique vegetable

Li Anlan
From refreshing appetizers to indulgent treats, the eggplant has played a role in Asian cuisine for thousands of years.
Li Anlan

Eggplant is one of the summer’s bounty that shines in so many dishes, from refreshing appetizers to an indulgent treat that can rival rich meat skewers in night markets.

Eggplants originated in India thousands of years ago and were later introduced and cultivated in south and east Asia.

Cultivation of eggplants in China is recorded in the ancient agriculture literature “Arts for the People” (“Qimin Yaoshu”) completed by Jia Sixie in the Northern Wei Dynasty (AD 386-534).

There are several varieties of eggplant available in Chinese markets: the large dark purple eggplant (buqie), large green eggplant, round dark purple eggplant (yuanqie, more commonly seen in the north) and slim purple eggplant (changqie, more commonly cultivated in the south).

The flavor and texture of different eggplant varieties differ slightly. For example, the narrow purple eggplant is softer and more tender than the large dark purple eggplant, while the latter is stronger and more suitable for grilling.

Proud history of a unique vegetable
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Sichuan-style eggplant stir-fry, eggplant is at its best in late summer, the purple skin is packed with anthocyanins.

Eggplants contain rich nutrients, especially the bright purple skin that’s packed with anthocyanins. They are a rich source of antioxidants and manganese — a cup of eggplant can provide 6 to 10 percent of daily manganese needs.

Available throughout the year, eggplants are at their best and freshest in late summer and are also easy to store.

Eggplants have a unique texture, the flesh is soft, spongy and not so moist, while the glossy skin is thin and chewy. The flavor of the vegetable is also light and mild in most popular cultivars, so eggplants have been a popular substitute for meat in Chinese cuisine, where they are cooked in similar ways to pork or beef with heavy sauces to imitate meat dishes.

Braised eggplant is a popular main dish because it is rich, fragrant and meat-like. The first step in braising an eggplant in traditional recipes is to stir-fry the vegetable in lots of oil on a high heat until it softens. Then add a combination of soy sauce, bean paste, chili, ginger and garlic to braise the eggplant until it’s reduced to a glazed finish.

Minced pork is added in braised eggplant when it’s not served as a vegan or vegetarian dish, adding extra flavor and richness. Tomatoes can also bring a subtle sweet and sour flavor to braised eggplant, and you can also make it more fulfilling by adding cellophane noodles as a final touch.

A similar imitation meat dish is spicy and sour fish (or sweet and sour depending on taste). The eggplant is cut into thicker sticks, then battered and deep-fried before serving with a sticky, glossy sauce.

However, because the flesh of the eggplant is highly absorbent, it can take up an enormous amount of oil as well as the flavors of condiments and seasonings after moisture starts to evaporate during high-temperature cooking. So the delicious braised eggplant dish, especially those served in restaurants, is a trap in terms of nutrition and health. This type of eggplant dish is described by some people as “drinking oil directly.”

There are ways to get around the amount of oil required in braised eggplant dishes, such as brining chunks of eggplant with salt for 30 minutes, then squeezing out the moisture and coating with starch before stir-frying in a moderate amount of oil.

In China’s northeastern provinces, there is a traditional eggplant dish called disanxian, meaning three delicacies from the earth. Considered a treasure trove of vegetables, disanxian is composed of eggplant, potato and green chili, three ordinary products that are transformed into a delicious treat that can rival meat dishes.

It’s a classic dish to serve with steamed rice but packs high calories. The rich flavor comes from deep-frying the vegetables in a lot of oil before seasoning with garlic paste, chili and ginger.

Proud history of a unique vegetable
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Disanxian: eggplant, potato and green chili

Because eggplants become very soft and melty after cooking, they are a great vegetable to add into noodle and rice dishes for richer textures and flavors.

Qiehe is an eggplant sandwich dish and satisfying snack. Using the large buqie, seasoned minced pork is stuffed between two slices of meaty eggplant, then the “sandwich” is coated in batter and deep-fried.

The dish can also be made by lightly fry stuffed eggplant slices with less oil in a non-stick pan over a low to medium heat until the color turns golden, but this misses the crunchiness of the shell.

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 Deep-fried eggplant “sandwiches”

Hand-pulled eggplant is a very healthy eggplant dish that’s perfect for the summer season. The eggplants are steamed with the tops and tails cut off. The flesh will then become very soft.

After letting the steamed eggplants cool down, pull and tear the flesh into long strips and layer in a plate, then pour over a simple dressing of minced garlic, light soy sauce, vinegar, chili oil and sugar.

In Hunan cuisine, there is a specialty eggplant dish that pounds lightly fried eggplant and green chili in a mortar with pidan (century egg), soy sauce, garlic, sesame oil, salt and vinegar. The presentation of the dish may be a little off-putting, but by pounding everything into a mash, the rich flavors of all ingredients blend beautifully together.

Proud history of a unique vegetable
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Eggplant salad

Recipe: grilled eggplant

This most popular vegetable dish at street grill stalls can be prepared at home easily.

Ingredients:

2 eggplants

Light soy sauce, 2 tablespoons

Vinegar, 1 tablespoon

Chili sauce, 1 tablespoon

Garlic paste, 1 tablespoon

Some chopped scallion and optional red chili

Yield: 2 servings

Steps:

1. Thoroughly rinse the eggplants, pat dry and then bake in the oven for 20 minutes at 200 degrees Celsius (392 Fahrenheit) on aluminum foil.

2. In a saucepan or wok, sauté the scallions with oil and then add light soy sauce, vinegar, chili sauce and garlic paste, add a little bit of water and bring to boil.

3. Slice open the baked eggplants and pour the sauce to cover the surface, add some fresh scallions and bake for another 5 to 10 minutes. For richer flavors, season with a little bit of cumin powder and chili powder.

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Grilled eggplant


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