Polish chef brings cool approach to Chinese cuisine
Chef Michael Janczewski pushes the boundaries of traditional Chinese flavors and cooking techniques. In Bastard, his contemporary Chinese restaurant, he puts a new spin on old classics and creates dishes that captivate and delight.
"Having your own restaurant is the only way to truly experience creative freedom," the Polish chef said.
Shot by Yu Wenhao, Sun Minjie.
Chef Michael Janczewski started his culinary career in Warsaw, Poland, 13 years ago.
Janczewski started his culinary career in Warsaw, Poland, 13 years ago and has worked in many different kitchens: modern Polish, Japanese, and French. It was during his time at Ho Lee Fook in Hong Kong, working with chef Jowett Yu, that he discovered his passion for Chinese cuisine.
"The first time I cooked using a Chinese wok range, I knew that was it – and the rest is history," he said.
After moving to Shanghai six years ago, he worked at Canton Disco (the Shanghai Edition), co-founded "neo-bistro" Juke, and finally brought to life Bastard, a concept he'd been envisioning for some time with his partner Jiro Hsu.
"The moment felt right and we went for it," Janczewski said.
The location, tucked away in an alley off Jiaozhou Road, is where the story began.
The location, tucked away in an alley off Jiaozhou Road, is where the story began.
"What captivated me was the history of the space. It used to be a hostel, a place where travelers from around the world stayed when visiting Shanghai, creating a melting pot of cultures and fostering exchanges. It provided a unique spirit, which we wanted to revive – but this time, as a restaurant."
Why name the restaurant Bastard?
"We just like the word – it's daring, provocative, rebellious, which I guess reflects who we are," Janczewski said.
The interior captures a raw, eclectic spirit with bright colors and an industrial aesthetic.
A vintage clock from the 1980s is the same model that appeared in the movie "Chungking Express."
He also wanted to clarify that Bastard isn't about modern Chinese food, but rather a modern Chinese restaurant.
"When you think of traditional Chinese dining venues, they often have large banquet rooms with white tablecloths, bright lighting and extensive menus – usually with no music. We wanted to build a small, comfortable space where we like to dine, with loud fun music and a cool approach to Chinese cuisine," Janczewski said.
Bastard's atmosphere is part of what makes it a popular spot for a fun night out. Drawing inspiration from Hong Kong's vibrant culture, the duo wanted to evoke the essence of the Kowloon Walled City. The interior captured its raw, eclectic spirit with bright colors and an industrial aesthetic – creating a cyberpunk type of vibe that resonates with diners. Pay attention to the vintage clock from the 1980s – the same model appeared in the movie "Chungking Express" by Wong Kar-wai. The back of the clock has been signed by the movie's director Wong and cinematographer Christopher Doyle.
Most of the dishes are rooted in Cantonese cuisine, reflecting the chef's prior training, but he also infuses flavors from various regions of China to add a creative twist.
The menu here is compact, around 15 dishes in total.
"Obviously there are elements in our dishes that draw from my past experiences with Western cuisine. A few are more of a 'fusion' style but more like a fashion within Chinese cuisines – for example Cantonese mixed up with Sichuan elements. But some dishes, I try to keep as traditional as possible because they simply don't need to be altered."
Most of the dishes are rooted in Cantonese cuisine, reflecting the chef's prior training, but he also infuses flavors from various regions of China to add a creative twist. This results in plates that are both familiar and innovative.
Drunken pigeon, presented elegantly on the plate, is Janczewski's take on the classic Shanghai drunken chicken.
Prawn toast two ways is another creative version based on the Hong Kong classic.
Drunken pigeon, presented elegantly on the plate, is Janczewski's take on the classic Shanghai drunken chicken but a more refined version. Prawn toast two ways is another creative version based on the Hong Kong classic – raw prawn tartare on top of golden, crispy prawn toast.
Some of the dishes remain staples on the menu such as the grilled maitake mushroom with tree flower and tree bark, or the mixed noodles.
"The idea behind most of the dishes is simple – 'taste never lies'," Janczewski said.
Since Bastard's opening, reviews have been mixed, but if you fancy enjoying Chinese dishes with loud music and a cool vibe over white tablecloths and large round tables, give it a try.
If you go:
Opening hours:
Lunch: Mon-Fri 12 noon-2:30pm;Dinner: Mon-Sun 6pm-late
Tel: 131-6207-6826
Address: Unit 102, No. 30 Lane 319 Jiaozhou Rd
Average price per person: 230 yuan (dinner)
