Eating, playing and gossiping are at the heart of life in Chengdu.

“If you don’t experience these three things, you have not been to Chengdu,” says Meng Dan, a travel guide.

Combining two or more of the three is even better. Some examples include eating while indulging in a foot massage, looking at art or listening to poetry. Gossip goes down especially well if served with zhuyeqing, a green tea, and snacks like peanuts and melon seeds. The gossip in Chengdu is often as spicy as the food.

The locals penchant for gossip has led to the saying that people cannot spend their youth in Sichuan but it’s a great place in your senior years.

Famous Chinese writer Yu Qiuyu attributes slow and comfortable pace to its history and geography.

“The city is guarded by lines of mountains and has never suffered a great famine or war,” Yu writes in “Cultural Odyssey.” “This has given the people a sense of safety, resulting in a good sense of humor among locals.”

Chengdu locals are proud of being the “home of the panda” and they agree there is some truth to what Yu says. But they are also quick to point out that their city is changing and becoming more open to outside influences, especially Western culture.

This newfound sense of adventure and creativity can be seen in the food.

“The latest trend is bangbangji, boiled chicken marinated in spicy sauce with cheesecake, and serving hotpot with ice-cream,” a Chengdu foodie says.

On this three-day trip, travel guide Meng was asked to create an itinerary based around playful eating and drinking. In short, I wanted to feel like a Chengdu native.

Kuanzhai Lane

The old lane was built in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and is a great destination to experience eating, playing and gossiping. Well, you will need to understand a little Mandarin to catch the gossip.

The buildings here combine north and south style architecture. The Chinese-style four-sided enclosed courtyard home, or siheyuan, originated in northern China. The siheyuan in the lane feature a southern Chinese style garden, incorporating a fish pond and brick carvings.

The best time to visit is when the sun is setting as the whole lane fades to a monochrome.

The old lane is fringed with food stalls selling xiaochi, or small snacks. Portions are small so don’t be shy about trying a variety of different items.

Try the sweet and spicy zhongshuijiao, which looks like northern style dumplings. They contain minced pork and are dipped in a shiny red oil that is made from sugar, chili and spices.

Flavorful, aromatic and slightly chewy dandanmian is another highlight. These noodles are coated with a spicy sauce made from Sichuan pepper, minced pork, scallions and peanut butter. Liangfen is a translucent rice noodle drenched in a spicy sauce.

For those who can’t handle so much spicy fare, try the sweet and smooth sanheni, literally three different pastes. Glutinous rice, black sesame and walnut are ground and fried with lard until it creates a mash like texture. Vendors here sprinkle it with some crushed peanuts to add texture and aroma. You can also try tangyouguozi. These deep-fried glutinous rice balls are coated with sesame and brown sugar glaze. The crunchy exterior mixes well with the smooth, soft filling.

As for beverages, try liangcha, a sweet and slightly bitter drink made from local herbs.

Jiuyitang, an elegant teahouse at the corner of the lane, is a good source to catch the latest gossip.

Intricately graved classical Chinese furniture, waitresses wearing ancient costumes and lines of red oil-paper umbrellas hanging from the ceiling make it feel like the Qing Dynasty.

The best seat is hidden inside, opposite a stage where Sichuan Opera is performed.

Many people go to drink tea while they read newspapers or gossip.

Many old residents in the area have been moved out since the city government hopes to turn the lane into a leisure center. But some residents are said to be the descendants of nobles.

Kuanzhai LaneAddress: Close to Tongren Rd (First time travelers are advised to take a taxi.)

JiuyitangTel: 028-8669-9191Address: 37 Kuan Lane, Kuanzhai Lane

Sansheng Village

This suburban village is just 20 minutes from downtown and features nice scenery, healthy food and art studios.

Artists here can rent houses at low costs and transform them into their studio.

You can rent a bicycle to stroll around, watch the swans on a peaceful lake and take a walk through lavender fields or a bamboo forest.

Restaurants here feature farmer’s cuisine, cooking the freshest ingredients in the simplest way.

Yingyuan grows its own vegetables, greens and chilies. Dishes are simply stir-fried and flavored with some spices. They also raise their own chickens and ducks.

Chicken meat stir-fried with taro in spicy sauce is Yingyuan’s signature. The taro absorbs all the flavors from the sauce while the meat is tender and juicy. Its pork rib radish soup is also recommended. They also serve a dish of fruit at the end of the meal. The fruit changes according to the season.

The decor has a romantic feel including a wooden swing and potted lavender plants. Dining tables are set in the leafy courtyard as several cats and dogs roam around.

Nearby is Chengdu Blue Roof Art Gallery. It’s the village’s biggest gallery and known for its huge collection of artwork. The gallery’s biggest claim to fame is the collection of paintings by Zhou Chunya, known for his striking use of color.

YingyuanTel: 028-6164-5133Address: Zone A, Hetangyuese Area, Sansheng Village

Chengdu Blue Roof Art GalleryTel: 028-8467-5315Address: Zone A, Hetangyuese Area, Sansheng Village

Fine dining

Curious about the upscale restaurant scene, I ask my guide to take me to a place with the finest culinary techniques in town and great service. She chooses Chongdeli, an art gallery like fine-dining restaurant in a building about 100 years old.

The flavors are totally different compared to Sichuan restaurants in Shanghai due to the chef’s skill with spices. There’s no menu at Chongdeli. The restaurant uses fresh produce that is in season.

The fenzhengrou, steamed sliced pork with rice flour, is nice balance of savory and spicy. It’s also fatty, but not greasy.

Spicy food aficionados can try the mapodoufu, tofu in chili bean sauce with minced pork, or fuqifeipian, pork tongue and lung in spicy sauce. Both feature a balanced taste between numb and spicy. The tender silky tofu makes a nice contrast to the crispy tongue.

Reservations are required.

Chongdeli’s owner also loves art and has a nice collection of ceramics and glassware. Old photos on the wall reveal glimpses of the city’s history.

ChongdeliTel: 138-8222-7378Address: 88 Tangpa Jie

Nightlife

Things start to kick into gear around 9pm. Chengdu is known for its rock bands and bar scene.

But if you’re looking to cap the day in quiet surroundings, check out Baiye bar.

It is owned by Qu Yongming, a highly regarded poet.

Two walls feature a good selection of books that customers are allowed to read while drinking. Another wall displays black and white portraits of famous writers like Ernest Hemingway and Franz Kafka.

Poem recital parties in Chinese and English take place from time to time.

BaiyeTel: 028-8559-4861Address: 85 Yulin Rd W.

Where to stay:

Shangri-La Chengdu

As one of the first five star hotels in Chengdu, Shangri-La has a great location in the center of the ancient town. Most of its rooms have a view of the Jin River, a prime scenic spot. It’s just 20 minutes walking distance from Kuanzhai Lane. The hotel’s professional concierge team can help with tailoring your local schedule according to your personal preferences and arranging your local transportation.

Café Z in the hotel offers authentic European, South American, Middle Eastern and Asian dishes.

The hotel’s boutique shop sells various panda toys. Sichuan embroidery art pieces are ideal souvenirs and are part of a tradition going back 2,000 years.

Tel: 028-8888-9999Address: 9 Binjing Rd E.

The Diayutai Boutique

The boutique hotel in a historical brick building includes 45 modern furnished rooms, a all-day dining restaurant and a Chinese restaurant. Two courtyards in the hotel designed in classical Chinese style are highlights.

Tel: 028-6625-9999

Address: 38-39 Kuanzhai Lane