Shikumen history speaks through QR codes
A tourist approaches a QR code, newly installed at the entrance to a downtown shikumen, one of the city's unique lane districts.
BUILDINGS and street furniture in lilong residences — downtown lane neighborhoods — are being fitted with QR codes to allow visitors to discover the stories behind the streets, some of which date back more than a century.
The alleyways, including shikumen (stone-gate residences), sit in the shadows of skyscrapers with their history and the stories of former residents virtually unknown, even to locals.
By scanning the codes, tourists and history buffs can now read bilingual texts, check out old and new photos, and listen to audio commentaries.
More than 200 buildings and 10 neighborhoods in Huangpu District have QR codes at their entrances and the practice is being extended citywide to preserve the history of a unique housing style that fuses Eastern and Western flavors.
These lane houses are unique to Shanghai and were once common throughout the city. A central lane in the middle of the complex is flanked by alleyways on both sides.
The residences originated in wooden houses built for refugees fleeing the Small Sword Uprising and Taiping Rebellion in the 1850s when thousands of people from neighboring provinces fled to the former foreign settlements for refuge.
Overseas developers then built commercial buildings combining Western and Chinese architectural styles and sold or rented them to the Chinese. Shikumen were built before 1928, villas through the 1940s, and apartments were built between 1931 and 1945.
Former lifestyle has been retained in the communities.
Changjiang Apartments are among the residences that already have a code. The apartment building (also called Carlton Apartments) on Huanghe Road occupies a prominent location behind the Park Hotel at People’s Square.
According to the information accessed through the code, it was built in 1933 during the golden era (1920s-40s) of modern Shanghai apartment buildings. It was the last Shanghai home of author Eileen Chang (Zhang Ailing, 1920-1995). Born to an aristocratic Shanghai family, she wrote in both Chinese and English, and was known for tragic love stories. “Lust, Caution” and “Love in a Fallen City” are among her best known works. Photos include Chang’s portrait, some of her manuscripts and old views of the buildings.
Two new-style lilong residences Maodeli and Xiangkangli also have codes.
Built in 1924, all of Maodeli’s 11 two-story brick and wood houses are well-preserved. Xinchang Road in front of the neighborhood was originally built in 1899 when it was known as Myburgh Road. Features of the buildings, such as wooden window frames and roof tiles, are singled out for visitors to have a closer look.
“We knew the neighborhood was almost 100 years old, but its history was a mystery to us,” said a senior resident.
Xiangkangli was built in the 1920s and was once home to many entrepreneurs from neighboring provinces or abroad.
Nanjing Road E. subdistrict has been collecting the history of these lane houses from the city archives as well as interviewing senior residents.
The introduction to Xiangkangli neighborhood beside Maodeli, for instance, involves narrations by Song Zuanyou, a son of Song Da, one of the first residents.
“This was once home to entrepreneurs from neighboring provinces or overseas,” Song says. His father from Shandong Province was a chef at the Park Hotel. Song Zuanyou’s brothers worked for the city harbor engineering bureau and photographic film factory while his sister also worked for the hotel.
Their neighbor Zeng Yaozhong, a physician who studied in Germany, opened a private clinic in the neighborhood.
Citywide, about 400 structures will have QR codes by the end of the year. The history behind the 22 heritage buildings along the Bund in Huangpu, for instance, can be read through the codes.
Xuhui District has nearly 80 historic buildings on the list. In some villas on Wukang Road, a VR guide is also available. Changning District has sightseeing routes connecting buildings by architect Laszlo Hudec, while Hongkou will highlight former residences of celebrities.
Changjiang apartments are among the historical residences that already have a QR code. The apartment building on Huanghe Road is behind the Park Hotel on People’s Square.
