Historical brands score 10/10 on 'Double 12'

Jiang Xiaowei / SHINE

Much of the character of this amazing city is owed to our time-honored brands. Many of these brands have clung on, sometimes from the days of the last dynasty, through the establishment of the republic, the war against Japanese aggression and the founding of the PRC in 1949. Many have blossomed and flourished through 40 years of reform and opening-up.

Today, a new challenge is upon them and a new update is called for. The online shopping revolution is here and, like every other enterprise in the country, these venerated brands on historic Shaanxi Road N. must evolve or perish.

Wednesday's “Double 12” shopping day showed just how much these stalwarts of commerce are focused on evolution.

The 300-year-old Leiyunshang traditional Chinese medicine pharmacy launched a variety of promotions in its online mall, while its physical presence on the Shaanxi Road offered tea and healthy food for free.

“Instead of putting up a fight against online retailers, we should embrace our online alternatives,” said Li Xiaoxin, manager of the store. “Here in the store, people can have serious conversations about TCM and try our products. After the visit, they can buy our products through our online store.”

The whole essence of Shaanxi Road N. is that it is more than just some shop fronts. People are attracted there by the variety of experiences on offer. This is more than just a place where things are sold.

At Longfeng Cheongsam, master tailor Jiao Yigang gave lessons to visitors, teaching them how to make cheongsam buttons ­­— pankou, or “frog fasteners.”

Jiang Xiaowei / SHINE

Retaining value

The cheongsam was redefined in Shanghai in the early 1900s, when it changed from a loose-fitting, straight-line gown to a body-hugging, one-piece dress. Longfeng, in operation for more than 80 years, is synonymous with masterful cutting and delicate embroidery, including the unique skill of making pankou, sometimes described as the “eye” of the cheongsam.

Jiao, who has been making cheongsam for nearly 40 years, said, “Beginners usually start by making pankou because it requires patience and care.”

“I had thought it was simple because it was just some stitching. But when I tried it, I found that it was really hard,” said Zhang, 32, who took Jiao’s lesson. “But I really enjoyed it. It was fun.”

Gao Peijing, assistant to the general manager of Longfeng, said cheongsam-making courses were extremely popular.

“Since the latter half of last year, we have run six classes, each with 12 students and three or four tailors. Just 600 yuan and you can learn from veteran tailors everything from stitching and cutting to finally finishing,” Gao said.

According to her, younger women have become important customers as vintage is enjoying a bit of a renaissance. Many brands are expanding production and cooperating with other high-street brands. Longfeng, aims to become an iconic haute couture house and is well on its way.

Recently, it launched a set of coasters, with pankou in the middle.

“The Palace Museum recently started selling lipsticks which are very popular. It proves that people value history,” Gao said. “We are considering more products that allow people, especially newly-weds, to buy customized gifts.”

But very few foreigners come to Longfeng.

“We welcome foreigners. But we don’t speak English very well and our tailors don’t speak English at all. If there was a translator, we would consider opening a cheongsam class to foreigners,” Gao said

Humsuit, built in 1929, held a small wine party at the store on Wednesday. Ten young men tried on new jackets that add fashionable elements to the traditional Yat-Sen suit.

“We want to cater to younger customers,” said Chen Weifu, general manager of Humsuit. “Young people don’t want to be restricted in traditional suits. So, we’ve changed it from a formal suit to a casual jacket.”

The 101-year-old Hongxiang is a pioneer of Chinese fashion. In the 1930s, it was the first couture house in China to hold a fashion show, attracting celebrities like Ruan Lingyu, “China’s Greta Garbo,” and movie queen Hu Die to the catwalk. About 90 years later, it is still one of only a few historical brands to hold fashion shows.

Hongxiang unveiled its latest collection on Wednesday.

According to master tailor Chen Jian, the only dress of value is one made by hand. “Hand-made clothes are alive. They have soul,” he said.

“Actually, I’d heard of Hongxiang but I never bought anything. Today, the show really impressed me and I decide to buy a cashmere coat,” said Chen Aili, 45. “Hongxiang’s clothes look as elegant and of the same quality as Max Mara.”

Gu Lu is a shoemaker at Dameihua where cloth shoes in a style dating back more than 3,000 years are made and sold. She was happy to demonstrate the craft to customers yesterday.

Established in 1904, Dameihua’s handmade shoes with cloth soles and embroidery may look old-fashioned, but they are becoming popular with young people thanks to the current taste for a vintage look.

“Our shoes are really comfortable and young people are wearing them at the office or when driving,” Gu said.

“We’re doing so much to show to the public that these brands and their stores are alive and still competitive,” said Li Xijun, vice general manager of Kaikai Group, parent company of many brands.

Shaanxi Road N., built in 1914 as Seymour Road, is one of 11 backstreets that feed into Nanjing Road W., sometimes called Shanghai’s Fifth Avenue.

Its 230-meter section between Nanjing and Weihai roads reopened in September after a six-month renovation. Now, it has 17 shops with venerated brands.

“We have improved the stores both inside and out,” said Zhuang Qianyun, chief executive of Kaikai.

The stores retain their charm and embrace new retail concepts. Customers have come from near and far.

According to Kaikai, since the renovation, the revenue of some stores have increased by more than 60 percent compared with the same period last year.