Even at 90, Humsuit still sharp as ever

Li Qian
To pass on its legacy, the high-end brand has published a book filled with its tailoring secrets. Humsuit specializes in suits, overcoats, shirts and accessories for men.
Li Qian
Even at 90, Humsuit still sharp as ever
Ti Gong

A new book explains how Humsuit makes its clothes.

A book revealing the secrets of how heritage-listed Humsuit makes its clothing was published on Monday as part of the brand’s 90th birthday celebrations.

Humsuit specializes in high-end suits, overcoats, shirts and accessories for men. The brand was established in 1929 by Xu Jisheng, a successor of the Fengbang tailoring style, which started in Ningbo at the end of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and later flourished in Shanghai.

In the early 20th century, Shanghai was not only renowned as a place for cutting-edge ladies' fashion. The city was at the forefront of revolutionizing Chinese menswear, ushering the change from gowns to modern suits in both Chinese and Western styles.

Fengbang tailoring was also used to create the famous Sun Yat-Sen jacket in 1905.

Xu inherited these tailoring skills and innovative concepts, which made his store a stand-out in Shanghai. Many celebrities have become loyal customers, including late Chinese Vice President Rong Yiren, actor Sun Daolin and singer Jiang Dawei.

Humsuit's tailoring skills were listed as part of China’s intangible cultural heritage in 2011.

Even at 90, Humsuit still sharp as ever
Ti Gong

Master tailor Xiao Wenhao shows how to make a suit.

Master tailor Xiao Wenhao still demonstrates his tailoring skills in the brand’s flagship store on Shaanxi Road N. in Jing’an District.

“Why does Humsuit, as an old brand, still live and have such an enduring appeal? Our unique skills really matter,” he said.

However, due to a lack of young tailors, the tradition of master's passing down their skills to students is no longer sustainable. The recent book is also an attempt to pass on the brand's tailoring secrets, said Xiao.

Besides the book, new jackets that add fashionable elements to the traditional Yat-Sen suit are now on display in the store. Earlier this year, it also held a wine party and fashion show.

“We want to cater to younger customers,” said Chen Weifu, general manager of Humsuit. “Young people don’t want to be restricted in a traditional suit. So, we’ve changed it from a formal suit to a casual jacket.”

Even at 90, Humsuit still sharp as ever
Ti Gong

Clothes on display


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