Coffee bar with a mission draws big crowds and a little controversy

Hu Min
A new cafe in Xuhui District has quickly become popular due to its innovative approach to serving coffee, but has also drawn controversy.
Hu Min
Shot by Jiang Xiaowei. Edited by Dai Qian.

A new cafe in Xuhui District has quickly become popular due to its innovative approach to serving coffee, but has also drawn controversy.

Coffee bar with a mission draws big crowds and a little controversy
Jiang Xiaowei / SHINE

Julian from the US takes his coffee from the bear claw.

At 68 Yongkang Road in Xuhui District, customers scan a QR code hanging on the wall to place a coffee order. A take-away cup is then delivered by a furry brown bear claw from a hole in the inconspicuous gray wall.

The paw shakes hands with customers, touches their heads and even presents red roses.

Coffee bar with a mission draws big crowds and a little controversy
Jiang Xiaowei / SHINE

The cafe draws big crowds. 

This afternoon, large crowds gathered outside the cafe, including both customers and onlookers, blocking parts of narrow Yongkang Road with urban management officials keeping an eye on the situation.

A cafe employee continuously reminded customers, onlookers and those taking photos to keep a distance for fear of triggering the attention of officials.

"Please empty space at the serving area, because urban management officials are watching," a worker told a man taking photos, pointing in the direction of an urban management official standing opposite the cafe.

An interview with one of the cafe's founders was disrupted by a business operator near the cafe, who complained that people in line blocked the entrance of his shop and sat in its chairs.

"You should work out a solution because your cafe affects the business of other shops on the road," he said.

The cafe has also drawn concerns over its hygiene and licensing. 

Coffee bar with a mission draws big crowds and a little controversy
Jiang Xiaowei / SHINE

A customer takes her coffee with a rose. 

Shanghai's food safety regulations require businesses that serve food to show their business operation license and food safety information in a visible area.

The cafe, which failed to abide by the regulations due to its design, has been ordered by the Xuhui District Administration for Market Regulation to rectify the situation and make its licensing information clearly visible to customers.

Wang Haiqing, one of the cafe's three founders, said the information is shown on the cafe's WeChat mini program.

Coffee bar with a mission draws big crowds and a little controversy
Jiang Xiaowei / SHINE

The cafe's licensing information is shown on its WeChat mini program. 

The cafe opened on December 3, the annual International Day of People With Disabilities.

The unique service mode employed by the cafe, Hinichijou, has drawn a slew of visitors, who instantly go click happy with their mobiles as they pose for photos.

Wang said she and the other founders opened the cafe not only because of their common interest in coffee, but also to provide more employment opportunities for people with disabilities.

Three of the cafe's baristas are hearing-impaired, one of whom has won prizes at coffee-making competitions.

"We found they tend to do what they're good at in a familiar environment," said Wang. "We don't want them to be disturbed, so we created this service mode."

Coffee bar with a mission draws big crowds and a little controversy
Jiang Xiaowei / SHINE

People stand in line to get coffee. 

"It's a unique concept," said Julian from the US who has been in Shanghai for about three years.

He had been waiting more than 30 minutes for his coffee.

"I think people should go there because the coffee shop is convenient or they think the coffee tastes good or they want to support the charity mission, but I don't think people should go there just because it's popular," he said.

Coffee bar with a mission draws big crowds and a little controversy
Jiang Xiaowei / SHINE

A man interacts with the claw.  

About 500 to 600 cups of coffee were served daily over the weekend.

"It almost hit our capacity," said Wang.

"I was attracted by the beautiful latte art, so I began to learn how to make coffee," said 35-year-old Ying Ying, the cafe's award-winning barista. "I hope customers like my coffee."

Coffee bar with a mission draws big crowds and a little controversy
Jiang Xiaowei / SHINE

People place coffee orders on their phones. 

Customers with disability certificates can get a special cup of coffee for free.

Wang said she and her partners have plans to open more cafes with disabled employees with the support of the Shanghai Disabled Persons' Federation.


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