National Silk Museum weaves a heavenly tale

The "Mysterious Silk and Heavenly Looms" exhibition hall has for years been a highlight at the China National Silk Museum in Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province, as it showcases how people planted mulberry trees, bred silkworms and produced looms to make silk millennia ago.

This month, the museum has upgraded its exhibits in the hall to provide visitors with a revitalized and enriched experience. The exhibits offer insights into the ingenuity of ancient people and the profound impact of silk on Chinese culture.

The collection includes 20 looms from the Han (206 BC-AD 220), Tang (AD 618-907) and Song (960-1279) dynasties. Different types of looms made it possible for ancient people to weave various patterns on fabrics. This section is akin to a history book, transporting visitors to the ancient silk workshops.

Silk could be used to make gauze, satin, brocade, damask or luo, each varying by technique. Historically, Sichuan and Jiangsu provinces have been primary producers of the former types, while luo weaving has flourished in Hangzhou for centuries.

Luo is a lightweight, smooth fabric that is breathable and particularly suitable for summer wear. Hangzhou was home to luo production when it was made the capital city of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279).

Luo produced in Hangzhou was commonly known as hangluo. For centuries, the weaving technique has been a closely guarded secret. However, in a bid to hand down the intangible cultural heritage to the young generation, present-day inheritors are making it public to keep the skill alive. Some universities are now incorporating this centuries-old craft into their curricula.

Simple, plain types of luo were popular during the Song Dynasty when the royal court gave priority to minimalist art styles, evidenced by a large number of preserved pieces. In modern days, the semi-transparent luo is considered a perfect match for floral patterns.

The creation of spinning and weaving implements was not enough to produce silk since the cultivation of silkworms was essential. At the exhibition, a wide scope of antiques and archives are used to recreate how silkworm breeding was accomplished in ancient times.

Silkworm breeding is believed to date back 6,000 years after a silkworm cocoon was excavated in Shanxi Province. The large-scale cultivation of silkworms started in the Western Zhou Dynasty (c.11th century-770 BC), when jade items were often engraved with silkworm patterns.

More than 1,000 years ago, farmers in present-day Yuhang District, Hangzhou, made a living off growing mulberry trees, breeding silkworms and weaving silk. Today, some farmers still worship silk deities for a fruitful harvest, as showcased in the exhibition.

The introduction of mechanical looms made the production of silk with complicated structures possible, and further advances in printing, dyeing and embroidery techniques have resulted in silk fabrics featuring extraordinary patterns and colors.

Professionals who have studied design and old weaving techniques have reproduced the traditional patterns, stitching methods and embroidery as closely as possible.

The exhibition also displays ancient dyeing skills. People used the common indigo plant to make navy dye. Different varieties of indigo produced different hues. The most common navy shade came from present-day Zhejiang and Fujian provinces.

Archival records also reveal that the primary sources of red dyes were plants and insects, with minerals occasionally added to intensify the color. Regarding yellow hues, artisans varied the proportions of local plants during production to achieve different shades.

Boasting a rich heritage of silk and needlework, Zhejiang natives have mastered intricate techniques, employing tiny needles to split a single thread into several finer strands, each thinner than a piece of human hair, for hand-sewn designs. These exquisite embroideries are on display for visitors to admire.

If you go

Hours: 9am-6:30pm (closed on Mondays)

Admission: Free

Address: 73-1 Yuhuangshan Rd

玉皇山路73-1号