Costumes from Ming Dynasty tomb on exhibit

The discovery of an ancient tomb typically sparks intrigue. Whose grave does it hold, and when was it constructed? These are questions that captivate many.

The China National Silk Museum is now showcasing 12 costumes unearthed from a Ming Dynasty tomb in Tongxiang County in 2002. This exhibition provides curious minds with a glimpse into the lifestyles of officials from centuries past.

In 2002, when workers were constructing a temple in Tongxiang County, in northern Zhejiang Province, they had no idea they were right over an ancient tomb. When they hit upon a coffin, they immediately stopped work and notified local authorities.

The coffin was later sent to the China National Silk Museum, which houses a high-tech lab for further investigation. When the experts opened the coffin, they found that the burial garments were remarkably undamaged.

After years of excavation and conservation, it was discovered that the coffin belonged to Yang Qing of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Yang was a fengxianguan (风宪官, a supervisory officer) assigned to Henan Province, according to the archives.

Archaeologists combed through the tomb’s artifacts, unearthing only two blue-glazed ceramic bowls, a pair of chopsticks, a wooden box, and notably, no items of considerable value.

However, they extracted nine layers of garments from the decaying body, a remarkable find considering the abundance of well-preserved silk attire from that era.

Ti Gong

Silk, brocade, gauze or satin primarily make up the traditional jackets, coats, robes, trousers, pants, shoes, socks, blankets and hats. They comprise a complete set of Ming Dynasty imperial official grave robes.

These relics stand as priceless assets for uncovering the burial traditions of the Ming Dynasty.

At the time, the ritual required clothing for four seasons before burial. Yang, dressed in nine layers of garments, reflects the funeral folklore.

The outer robe is embroidered with an auspicious cloudy motif and features the intricate pattern of xiezhi (捬豸, a mythical creature) from Chinese legend.

The xiezhi, depicted as a single-horned black-haired beast, is believed to possess keen intelligence, capable of discerning truth from falsehood, and distinguishing between the honest and the deceitful.

Only select royal officials, not fengxianguan, historically wore the xiezhi pattern. Why did Yang dress in such a garment as a burial costume?

Historians say the then-royal court permitted him to use it because of his integrity and significant service to the court. The pattern represents Yang’s royal position and aspirations.

A layer of silk blanket covers Yang’s entire body, excluding the burial garments, and nine slipknots secure it. The blanket features the Chinese characters fu (福, good fortune) and shou (寿, longevity). The two characters are the most prominent in ancient mausoleums, representing descendants’ hopes for a better afterlife for deceased individuals.

Though the linens have lost their former sparkling texture and colors after being buried underground for centuries, the craftsmanship nevertheless reflects the imperial officials status.

Historians regard the garments on shown as the pinnacle of Zhejiang Province’s silk craftsmanship for over six centuries. Their weaving processes, patterns, themes and designs provide a treasure trove of information for the study of historical attire.

Grave garments represent not only burial customs but also evolving aesthetics. Visitors can see royal clothing up close and learn about the ancient styles.

In contrast to the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911) when extravagant garments were popular, the Ming Dynasty clothing featured simple motifs and needlework.

After centuries of underground burial, most Ming Dynasty tomb costumes had deteriorated. Slabs and clay made up Yang’s mausoleum. Gaps between the coffin and the walls were filled with glutinous rice to protect against the scorching heat, cold and water. That unique construction helped to protect the fragile fabrics underground for millennia.

If you go

Date: Through May 30 (closed on Mondays), 9am-5pm

Admission: Free

Address: 73-1 Yuhuangshan Road

玉皇山路73-1号