Yixing: Teaware not the only draw in the 'Capital of Pottery'
When one thinks of China's greatest export, one thinks of tea. Yet, how can good tea be had without good teaware?
And when one thinks of China's greatest teaware, one thinks of those from Jingdezhen (景德镇) in Jiangxi (江西) province. Jingdezhen, nicknamed the Capital of Porcelain (瓷都), was where imperial kilns churned out masterpiece after masterpiece, now prized by museums worldwide.
Yet, how can discussions of great teaware be complete without regard to those from Yixing (宜兴), affectionately dubbed the Capital of Pottery (陶都)? Teapots made of zisha (紫砂) are no less beloved (with auction prices to match), and zisha, literally "purple sand" or "purple clay," are found in and only in Yixing.
Hence, I made a point of going to Yixing to find out what zisha-ware is all about. My port of call is the twin-museum complex of the China Yixing Zisha-ware Museum (中国紫砂博物馆) and the China Yixing Ceramic Museum (中国宜兴陶瓷博物馆). The complex is, unsurprisingly, located in Dingshuzhen (丁蜀镇), the center of zisha-ware production and a township named after the hillocks Dingshan (丁山) and Shushan (蜀山). The fabled zisha, however, is mined in Huanglongshan (黄龙山), another hillock to the North. You will get to see zisha in its myriad forms in the Zisha-ware Museum, which occupies the second floor of the confusingly named Historical Ceramics Hall (陶瓷历史馆) of the complex.
Varieties of the fabled zisha are displayed in the China Yixing Zisha-ware Museum.
Scholars still debate when zisha teapot crafting began; however, its golden era was undoubtedly the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368-1911), when key techniques were perfected, master makers emerged, and zisha teapots became collector's items for royalty and academics alike. It is interesting to note that the Master of Tea Lu Yu (陆羽) praised tea from Yixing, formerly known as Yangxian (阳羡), highly enough that Yangxian tea was designated a tribute item as early as the Tang Dynasty (618-907), long before zisha teapots became all the rage.
In any case, the art of tea appreciation evolved with the emergence of zisha teapots, with some believing that one must dedicate one teapot to a specific type of tea – the reason being the unglazed clay of the teapot absorbs the tea's flavor. You don't want to mix up teas!
The zisha-ware museum will stun you with teapots of all shapes and sizes, and may make the exhibition of history of pottery making in Yixing (on the first floor) seem like an unworthy sideshow. However, I was impressed by some of the eclectic modern zisha creations on display, such as a most realistic football!
Different styles of zisha teapots are on display.
Do not be fooled – this football is not leather-sewn, but made of zisha.
The museum complex also comprises two exhibition halls displaying two noteworthy collections of zisha-ware, and a gallery dedicated to the legendary maker Gu Jingzhou (顾景舟艺术馆; a Gu teapot was sold in Hong Kong for over 9 million yuan (US$1.2 million) in 2013). My favorite hall, however, is the one displaying contemporary artist Han Meilin's zisha-ware. Han is the artist behind Air China's logo as well as the five iconic dolls for the 2008 Beijing Olympics; he has collaborated with various local teapot makers to produce delightfully creative modern-day zisha teapots, which are on display here.
There are also plenty of natural attractions in Yixing, such as the largest bamboo grove in eastern China (竹海; literally "the sea of bamboo") and the many solutional caves (Shanjuan Cave 善卷洞, Master Zhang's Cave 張公洞, and Linggu Cave 灵谷洞 are known as 'The Three Wonders of Yixing' 宜兴三奇). I opted for culture, however, and headed to the Yixing Museum (宜兴博物馆) instead.
A stunning paifang greets you as you enter the Yixing Museum.
I did not expect my visit to occupy the rest of my day. Just as the zisha-ware and ceramic museums are twinned, Yixing Museum is also literally twinned with the Yixing Art Museum (宜兴美术馆). Although the city museum gives a good account of the city's rich history and has quite a few remarkable items on display (the most noteworthy being none other than the stunning white marble paifang (牌坊) that greets you as soon as you step into the building), it is its twin that steals the limelight.
I long knew that Wu Guanzhong (吴冠中), considered by some – myself included – the greatest modern Chinese painter, was a Yixing native. I also knew that one of the greatest Chinese painters a generation before him, Xu Beihong (徐悲鸿) of equine portraiture fame, hailed from the city. Little did I know, however, that Yixing has been producing countless fabulous painters and calligraphers up till the present day. Discover them for yourself, as I did.
'The Home of Tea' – A painting dedicated to the Yixing Cultural Center by the city's most famous artist Wu Guanzhong.
The horse was not the only subject for the pre-eminent painter of horses, Xu Beihong.
I did not leave the city hungry. Before catching the last direct train (G7397) back to Shanghai at 19:17, I made a pit stop at the noted restaurant Jiu Fu Lou (九福楼; 258 Remin Road 人民南路258号) and had a wonderful lion's head (狮子头) in broth – only that, unlike the common variety found in Shanghai and almost anywhere else in Jiangnan region, it was made of Chinese longsnout catfish (鮰鱼) meat rather than pork. Oh, and delicious yellowhead catfish wontons (昂刺鱼馄饨) too. Yixing prizes freshwater fish as much as any other Jiangnan city!
Tips for travel:
Three direct services serve Yixing from Shanghai Hongqiao station daily and the journey takes about 2.5 hours. Alternatively, change trains in either Hangzhou East or Nanjing South for more departure and arrival time selections and a faster journey (just under 2 hours). Yet another way to get to and from Yixing is by bus from Wuxi coach station (1 hour) – a long weekend visit combining the two cities makes a lovely holiday.
Public transportation in Yixing is, however, limited, especially when you want to visit attractions outside of downtown. It is best to call a car online.
About the author
Dr Louis Lee is an award-winning author, educator, and radio presenter who has visited over 70 countries and regions. He has covered China extensively.
