Wuxi: a hidden gem of Jiangsu worthy of discovery
Jiangsu Province is naturally the most popular destination for Shanghai residents wanting a short excursion. It is just next door, it is choke-full of historical and cultural sites, and it boasts a superb transportation network that is integrated with Shanghai's.
Ask where most people visit and you will most likely, and rightfully, be told Nanjing, the capital; Suzhou, Shanghai's quaint neighbour and economic powerhouse; or Yangzhou, the important canal city in which the Venetian traveller Marco Polo worked as an official, if legend is to be believed.
Those in the know, however, will include Wuxi (无锡) in the list. Few realize it was the capital of the historic Wu state (吴国), whose territory included all the aforementioned cities including Shanghai, and whose language gave birth to the Shanghai dialect. It is also the richest city of all of China – never mind Jiangsu – for the fourth year running, as measured by per capita GDP.
View of Taihu from Yuantouzhu, dubbed "The Nicest Corner by Lake Tai"
Wuxi may not be strewn with the classical gardens that have made Suzhou famous, but it does share beautiful Taihu (太湖; Lake Tai) with Suzhou, and some may prefer visiting the lake – the heart and soul of the Jiangnan region – in Wuxi instead of Suzhou.
Yuantouzhu (鼋头渚, or Turtle Head Isle), immortally dubbed "The Nicest Corner by Lake Tai" (太湖佳绝处) by the influential author Guo Moruo (郭沫若), is an ideal place to go. However, save your lake visit for your second day in the city – enjoy Wuxi's cultural offerings first.
After arriving at Wuxi Station (there are very frequent services from both Shanghai and Shanghai Hongqiao railway stations, and the journey takes under an hour), hop onto the subway and head for Huishan Ancient Town (惠山古镇; Line 4).
Huishan (Mount Hui), whose elegance and charm endorsed by Emperor Qianlong as "The Top Mountain in Jiangnan" (江南第一山), is connected to Xishan (锡山), a hillock that reputedly gave Wuxi its name. You can visit both – in fact, you are much closer to Xishan as you exit the subway station and enter the scenic area.
Huishan is famous for at least three things: its ancestral temples (祠堂), clay figurines (泥人), and the Second-Best Spring under Heaven (天下第二泉).
Along Straight Street (惠山直街), you will pass many ancestral temples honouring various Chinese historical figures, many of Wuxi origin, and built during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. Many are open to visit – make yourself welcome.
Huishan clay figurines are a much beloved folk art form which also made onto the first national intangible cultural heritage list in 2006. I bought a small set in an artisan's atelier on the street. For those particularly interested in the craft, be sure to check out the sizeable China Clay Figurine Museum.
Scenic Huishan (Mount Hui), Emperor Qianlong's Top Mountain in Jiangnan
A Huishan artisan making traditional clay figurines, a national intangible cultural heritage item
As for the Second-Best Spring, it was the source of inspiration of one of the most famous pieces of Chinese music, "The Moon Mirrored in the Pool" (二泉映月) – the pool being the spring. The composer of the piece, the blind erhu player Hua Yanjun 華彥鈞 (also known as Abing 阿炳), was buried not far from the spring. (For those keen on hiking, behind Abing's tomb is the vast Huishan National Forest Park; walk to your heart's delight and be rewarded by wonderful scenery at the top.)
It was none other than Lu Yu (陸羽), the Sage of Tea, who gave the spring its accolade – Lu ranked the spring second in all of China in terms of water quality, and who could be more particular about water than a tea master.
The Second-Best Spring under Heaven
The Huishan scenic area is huge – I have yet to mention the Ming Dynasty Jichang Garden (寄畅园), which delighted Emperor Qianlong enough for him to order an imitation be built in the Summer Palace of Beijing, and the 1,500-year-old Huishan Temple (惠山寺) – be sure to check out the two Dharani pillars (经幢), or stone pillars of sutras – that guard its entrance. Dated from the late Tang (618-907) and Song (960-1279) dynasties, respectively, they are rare specimens in the Jiangnan region.
Huishan can occupy you for most of a day. After you are done, head for Nanchan Temple (take either Bus 15 or the subway), Wuxi's landmark with a history as long as Huishan Temple. It is located right next to Wanghu Gate (望湖门), the southern gate of the old city whose wall no longer exists. The temple area, busy with several markets (including a book market and an antique market) and lots of small shops, is adjacent to the mile-long Qingming Bridge Historical District (清名桥历史街区), which extends along an old stretch of the Grand Canal. The Grand Canal has since been moved two kilometres away to meet modern transportation demands, but the old stretch is testament to what made Wuxi prosperous historically. Be sure to visit picturesque Qingming Bridge.
Nanchan Temple, Wuxi's landmark, at night
Wuxi cuisine is distinguished by its sweet taste – Wuxi-style soup dumplings are markedly sweeter than those found in Shanghai, Suzhou, Hangzhou, and Nanjing. Try them, as well as the famous Wuxi spare ribs (无锡排骨), in one of the many local restaurants in either scenic area.
Sweet Wuxi-style spare ribs
Yuantouzhu, your main attraction on Day 2, is particularly worth a visit in March and April when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Head there early to avoid the crowd. If you have time to kill before catching your train back to Shanghai, consider visiting Donglin Academy (东林书院), the birthplace of a famous couplet that epitomizes Confucian gentleman-scholar ideals:
Sounds of wind howling, sounds of rain pouring, and sounds of pages turning, all such sounds are sounds in my ear;
Matters of the home, matters of the country, matters in the entire world, all such matters are matters that are dear to my heart.
(风声雨声读书声, 声声入耳; 家事国事天下事, 事事关心)
A Hundred Alleys of River Liang – A Map just outside Donglin Academy showing many historical gems in old city Wuxi
Not far from the entrance of the Academy, you will find a map of the diamond-shaped old city labelled Bai Xiang Liang Xi (百巷梁溪; "A Hundred Alleys of River Liang"). Liang Xi, Wuxi's main river, gives the old city's administrative district its name. Unlike Suzhou, Wuxi's historic gems are a bit more hidden and await your discovery. Have fun following either route shown (or both!).
About the author
Dr Louis Lee is an award-winning author, educator, and radio presenter who has visited over 70 countries and regions. He has covered China extensively.
